Hummerstone Heritage: Chasing Churches in Essex

We had a great day yesterday tracking down some unusual churches in South Essex. When out for a drive I take 3 books: a guide to Essex churches, Pevsner's historic buildings guide and The Good Pub Guide guarantees a good trip out!

We only had a couple of hours light after post-Christmas inertia but managed six churches- none of which were open. Shame- at least one would have been a bonus, but it's not surprising as the churches are near to major routes and several have suffered theft and vandalism already.

The route (by car):

1 Horndon on the Hill. Grade I St Peter and St Paul. Near the well known pub the Bell (I've been, good food, expensive!) Attractive wee church in interesting village setting (nice market building) Reminds me of a Kentish church: weatherboarded spire and all. It looked like the churchyard would have some pretty flowers coming in Spring.

Nice dormer windows

2) We then travelled on to Bulphan- in the centre of the village the Grade I St Mary's: 15th-19th century. Some nice details here- a well-kept looking church. Bulphan's notables include Jim Davidson, the "comedian".

I think Tesco's were channelling this tower when designing some of their "architectural" designs.

Good barge boards!

Lovin' the moss

3) Then on to Little Warley. Grade I St Peters- 15th century. Another very attractive, pretty typically lovely parish church.

Inside is a 17th century figure of Father Time, which I think we could just glimpse through the keyhole- can you?

The winter light makes the brickwork glow

Blocked door

Massive buttresses here.

And an exhortation to be nice to the churchyard and its inhabitants

4) Next on to Great Warley church- an unusual one this, and what a shame we couldn't get inside. Built in 1902, and apsidal (curved) ended. Render a bit meh. The grounds also feel early 20th century, formal, standard roses etc. Interesting.

The interior is apparently stunning- art nouveau, all silver and bronze. Pevsner described it as having "an orgy of the English Arts and Crafts variety of the International Art Nouveau"

The sun was sinking beyond the graveyard as we moved on to....

5) East Horndon. Wow. Have seen it many a time on the way to Southend, just North of the A127, isolated on top of a hill. All Saints- 15th century Grade II* Well worth finding your way to. Little parking nearby, go to Halfway House pub where you can get a key- it's managed by the rather fabulous Churches Conservation Trust. We didn't get a key as we didn't find our about it til we were at the church, and the sun was fast sinking. In summer Saturdays the church is kept open.

It's an all red-brick church and looks more like a semi fortified minor manor house than a church. Peeping through the windows, it looks well interesting inside too, galleries and a whitewashed interior.

The churchyard is worth an explore too, the scrub is being cleared away but at the moment still quite enigmatic. The moon was high as we looked around. Good, high, views towards London.

There are legends attached to this church of dragons and Anne Boleyn's heart.....

My Essex church book says "only the determined romantic will beat a path to this church's door". Do you think this pair of scanty pants found on the beaten path is evidence of said romantic? *shivers with horror*

6) The last church was Childerditch. Funny little church, dating from 1869 just off the A127 again. Close to East Horndon, the church of All Saints and St Faiths is unlisted. All these churches are in rural locations and this and the last one in particular, are isolated. It is positioned on a hillock on the site of a previous building, and charming- perhaps enhanced by the near darkness of a crisp winter's night as we approached up a tiny lane only used by night- anglers.